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Purslane
By Rosemary Barron
Although purslane is rarely seen on our own tables today, this pretty
herb has a long and interesting history. English medieval cooks and
gardeners loved purslane. The ancient Greeks made a bread flour from
purslane seeds and pickled its fleshy stems; Greek country cooks now
serve purslane as a salad herb, either alone or with other khorta (wild
greens). On Mexican tables, the hot, peppery bite of cooked purslane
is enjoyed with eggs and pork, while Chinese cooks value its sharp flavor
and slightly slippery quality with noodles.
Closer to home, the FDA lists purslane as a pervasive weed (the 7th
worst, worldwide) but to those of us who love its earthy, slightly acidic
flavor and crisp, succulent stems and leaves, the word ‘weed’
hardly seems fair. Purslane is simple to grow and there are several
varieties available to the gardener - the two best culinary ones are
both summer herbs, portulaca oleracea (green purslane) and portulaca
sativa (golden purslane).
Medieval herbals describe purslane as ‘cold,’ meaning that
it was considered a cure for a ‘burning’ (or malfunctioning)
heart and liver. Greeks call it a ‘blood-cleansing’ herb.
In Mexico, purslane is considered good for diabetics.
Recent research has confirmed that purslane is one of the best vegetable
sources of omega-3 fatty acids, as well as carotenes and vitamin C.
Purslane is one of my own favorite green vegetables. Clusters of its
young, fresh leaves are a perfect foil to ‘sweet’ vegetables
such as new potatoes, beets, fava beans and garbanzo beans, and juicy
vegetables such as cucumber and tomatoes. Or, simply sprinkle the leaves
generously with coarse sea salt, lemon juice and olive oil and serve
with fish, grills, or omelets. My neighbor on Crete used to add handfuls
of purslane sprigs to the juices in the roasting pan, once he had removed
the roast for carving. After a few minutes of swishing, the greens would
wilt and the sauce would acquire a sharper flavor and pleasantly gelatinous
character.
At home, you will often find purslane growing in muddy fields; or search
for it in Greek, Middle Eastern, Mexican and Chinese markets. It is
very easy to grow. Purslane seeds may be ordered from The Cook’s
Garden catalog (800) 457-9703. To prepare purslane for the table, be
sure to rinse it well in several changes of cold water.
Purslane Salad
(Serves 4)
4 cups purslane sprigs or 1 cup purslane sprigs and 3 cups arugula,
escarole,
romaine, chicory frisée and/or young spinach leaves
2 scallions, trimmed,
the best green parts left intact, and thinly sliced (optional)
Coarse sea salt and cracked pepper to taste
Strained juice of 1 small lemon, or to taste
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, or to taste
Thoroughly rinse the purslane and remove the small fleshy leaves in
clusters (the stems are easily broken with your finger and thumbnail).
Rinse the salad greens and pat dry; tear into bite-size pieces. Combine
the greens and scallions in a salad bowl and sprinkle with salt and
pepper, lemon juice, and olive oil. Toss with a wooden spoon and fork
and salt add salt, pepper and/or lemon juice to taste. Serve immediately.
Purslane and Young Beets
(Serves 4)
3 medium young beets, baked in a clay pot or boiled,
and peeled
Large pinch of ground cloves
Coarse sea salt and cracked black pepper to taste
Strained juice of 1 large lemon
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, or to taste
3 cups purslane sprigs
2 scallions, white parts only, thinly sliced
Cut the beets into a julienne (large matchsticks). Place in a non-reactive
bowl, sprinkle with the cloves, salt and pepper, and half the lemon
juice and olive oil. Gently toss together, taking care not to break
the beets. Cover and set aside for
1 hour or refrigerate for up to 4 hours. Thoroughly rinse the purslane
and remove the small fleshy leaves in clusters. Combine the beets, purslane
and remaining lemon juice and olive oil in a salad bowl. Add salt and
pepper to taste, sprinkle with the scallions and serve immediately.
Purslane and Feta Cheese
(Serves 4)
2 cups purslane sprigs, rinsed and patted dry
2 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seede, and cut into a 1-inch dice
1 small hothouse (English) cucumber, peele,
and cut in small dice
4 scallions, including the best green parts,
cut in thin slanting slivers
2 radishes, scrubbed and thinly sliced
1 cup coarsely chopped flat leaf parsley
1 tablespoon dried rigani (Greek oregano),
crumbled between fingers and palm
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, or to taste
1/4 to 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, to taste
Cracked black pepper to taste
12 Niçoise olives or 8 Kalamata olives, drained
1 cup drained feta cheese, in pieces
A few minutes before serving, combine the purslane, tomatoes, cucumber,
scallions, radishes, parsley, and rigani in a serving bowl. Whisk together
the lemon juice and olive oil, pour over the salad and sprinkle with
the pepper and olives. Lightly toss everything together, then sprinkle
with feta cheese.
Serve with pita bread.
Purslane with Fish and Pasta
(Serves 4)
12 ounces firm white fish fillets such as sea bass or sole,
skin removed
2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce
1 tablespoon sesame oil
6 ounces Eden brown rice or Jerusalem artichoke pasta
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 inch of fresh ginger, peeled and thinly slivered
6 scallions including greens, cut in slanting slivers
4 cups purslane sprigs, blanched 5 seconds
in a little boiling water and drained
6 ounces fresh young spinach, small leaves only, rinsed
2 tablespoons lightly toasted sesame seeds
The flavors here are those of the South-East Asian Pacific, but the
ingredients and techniques are familiar and available to most of us.
Cut the fish fillets into 8 or 12 attractive pieces and sprinkle with
half the fish sauce and sesame oil. Steam the fish for about 4 minutes,
or until opaque all the way through. Meanwhile, cook the pasta in boiling
water for 4 minutes, or until cooked ‘al dente,’ and drain.
While the pasta and fish are cooking, heat a wok or heavy sauté
pan, add the olive oil, and stir-fry or sauté the garlic and
ginger for 30 seconds or until aromatic. Add the scallions and remaining
fish sauce and toss together for 1 minute. Add the purslane and spinach
and cook until the spinach wilts slightly and purslane heats through.
Add the pasta, juices from the steamed fish and remaining sesame oil.
Divide the pasta and green vegetables between 4 warm plates and top
with the steamed fish. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve immediately.
About the author
Rosemary Barron is the author of Flavors of Greece, William
Morrow, NY, 1991, and Penguin, London, 1994; to be re-issued by Grub
Street, London, in June, 2000.
Follow-Up on Goose Ham and Sausage
We can now report on the results of the goose ham and sausage described
in our last issue. The ham was a great success--dark red and succulent,
like the best proscuitto ham. But the sausage smelled bad and
went into the garbage bin. We think we did not use enough salt and fat.
We’ll try again next year. . . watch these pages for an update
on our efforts.
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