Page 86 - Summer 2017 Journal

All Thumbs Book Reviews
a stock is done simmering, its bones and other contents are not done nourishing us. They should be returned to the soil, not sent to the sink garbage disposal or waste dump. While few authors ever get this far, Mamane reminds us to close the loop, turning refuse into riches that will spring forth from the soil, nourishing the plants and animals that provide the next batch of nutritious abundance.
For anyone who wants to know the history and alchemy that go into their humble chicken stock, the first part of the book is immensely en- joyable. Mamane also does an exceptional job describing the difference between industrialized, commercial pseudo-foods and the real thing. For example, Mamane discusses the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) requirements for commercial broth and stock: “The USDA requires a ratio of one hundred thirty-five parts water to only one part animal for broth manufacturers. This means that less than one ounce of meat for each gallon of water is used to make a batch of commercial broth. By contrast, the recipes in this book use four or more pounds of meaty bones for every gallon of water.”
For commercial beef stock, Mamane comments that stock “refers to a higher concentration of protein to water, about sixty-seven parts water to one part beef,” but notes that “additional ingredients—such as beef extract, beef powder, beef fat, and yeast extract—are used to enhance flavor and protein content.” Mamane concludes that “with so little meat—and no bones—used as the foundation, commercial stock requires additional substances to approximate the viscosity and nutrition seen in homemade stocks.”
It is the marriage of the historical, theoretical and practical that makes Mastering so much fun to read. You can be on page thirteen, skip to a matching recipe much later in the book and come back after an enjoyable meal to begin your learning journey afresh. The book also illustrates stock’s true staying power and importance, not only nutritionally but traditionally, showing why stock forms the “base” for so many dishes and cuisines. I learned about cooking techniques that I was previously unfamiliar with, and ways to incorporate stock that I never would have envisioned (along with matching recipes later in the book).
While the book is large, its organization and approach are easy to follow. It is full of short, helpful sidebars that summarize new informa- tion in easy-to-read and easy-to-remember formats. The recipes are well organized, neatly laid out and reader-friendly. Scattered throughout the book (though mainly in the latter half), the recipes also allow the reader to experience a few hundred years of cuisine, from making the original “portable soup” and “pemmican” from centuries ago to more modern dishes from across the globe.
Mamane’s emphasis on the importance of using high-quality in-
gredients—for ecological, ethical and edible reasons—is refreshing. She is able to show why obtaining good meat and bones matters, starting from the fresh pastures that feed the animals to the final bites of a meal. Such is the weight of this theme that she not only mentions it repeat- edly throughout the book but also devotes an entire chapter to the topic of finding sources of high quality ingredients, including tips and questions to ask for those who are new to the issues involved in obtaining quality meats and vegetables. Mamane’s emphasis on quality even extends to her comments about water, salt and other often-overlooked cooking ingredients.
Early in the book, Mamane mentions Sally Fallon Morell’s influence on the stock and broth movement. WAPFers will be glad to see that Mamane is one of many seeking to make Sally’s dream of a “brothal” in every town come true. If only we all could have one close by that featured the level of culinary skill coupled with ecologi- cal and farm care described in Mastering Stocks and Broths.
A book of such immense size and scope is hard to review succinctly. As I mentioned, Mastering Stocks and Broths was my surprise read of 2017, one that turned duty into delight (and which will also continue to inform and improve our family’s approach to this aspect of traditional cooking). Even with my considerable knowledge about food and farming, I learned all sorts of useful things as I journeyed through Mastering. Two thumbs up!
Review by John Moody
86
Wise Traditions
SUMMER 2017