Page 35 - Summer2018

TWO TALES nerves that connect the tongue to the stomach, The ancient
Bitters really tell two tales. The first is a pancreas, liver and gallbladder. These same
story steeped in alchemy, spirit and the kitchen nerves also contract the valves between the and vast
table; the second is the fascinating account of “compartments” of the gut. The valves be- record of
how bitters work in our bodies through ubi- tween esophagus and stomach, and between digestive
quitous bitter taste receptors. Herbalists turn to stomach and small intestine, close up in just the
bitters to stimulate digestion and expel worms same way as one’s face puckers when tasting bitters use
and parasites, and bitters have been very suc- artichoke leaves—and at the same time. The focuses on
cessful for these purposes. Most are blended closing of the valves helps keep food where it optimizing
into formulas that marry the bitter flavor with belongs, addressing reflux and heartburn issues
the right mix of warming, aromatic plants and beautifully. Together, the improved secretions digestion,
just a trace of sweetness to improve their taste and longer digestion time ensure that the food soothing and

and enhance their medicinal effects. we eat is broken down completely, rather than healing the
In the Western world, perhaps the first bit- fermented in our intestines or causing irritation
ters formula on record came over two thousand and inflammation. It is no wonder that the old- lining of the
years ago from King Mithridates VI of Pontus timers, sitting at small round tables in the late gut and
(now northern Turkey). Blending strong bitter afternoon light, sip their bitters while cursing at banishing
herbs with spices and resins from Persia and the soccer scores: they’re priming their digestion
Egypt, he developed a fabled remedy thought for the meal ahead. feelings of
to have the power to cure any poisoning. The ancient and vast record of digestive bit- pressure and
1,2
Modern research, having traced the remedy ters use relies on a specific template and focuses discomfort
back through the works of Celsus and Galen, on optimizing digestion, soothing and healing
shows that many of its herbs improve diges- the lining of the gut and banishing feelings around
tion, protect the gut’s mucous membrane and of pressure and discomfort around mealtime. mealtime.
enhance the liver’s detoxification powers. The Many swear by bitters as a way to stay regular
king consumed his potion daily; worried about while traveling, because bitters stimulate the
conspiracies against his crown, he wanted to release of bile (our own natural laxative). Others
make sure he could handle any poison slipped use them to indulge in large, extravagant meals
into his meal by a traitorous servant. without experiencing bloating, indigestion and
Over the centuries, variations on the heartburn, or simply enjoy them as a taste of a
remedy became part of daily culture around forgotten but important flavor.
the Mediterranean basin, where they are still
used around mealtime (though, one hopes, for BITTER TASTE RECEPTORS
health and wellbeing rather than suspected Modern research, through the work of Ca-
poisoning). The basic template has remained the tia Sternini (professor of medicine at UCLA)
same: one or more strongly bitter herbs; a resin and others, has characterized just how deeply
3
or gel-forming plant to protect the gut lining; linked to the bitter taste humans really are. Cells
pungent, aromatic herbs for flavor, character all along our digestive tract, from the tongue to
and relaxation; and just a trace of sweetness. the colon, are tuned to bitter-tasting molecules
(such as lactones and iridoids) from the plant
BITTERS AND DIGESTION world. Most researchers agree that these bitter
Flavor and mouth feel define herbal bitters, taste receptors (known as T2Rs) are a way for
but they also frame the chemistry that explains us to detect poison and to activate strategies
bitters’ effects. Why, for example, are bitters of detoxification and protection. (Maybe old
4
preparations always used around mealtimes, King Mithridates knew what he was doing!)
either before or after food? It turns out that the This enhanced detoxification begins in the gut
bitter note at the root of these formulas has the and continues in the liver, where the clearing
ability to activate digestive secretions power- of potentially harmful chemicals is improved
fully—from saliva and digestive enzymes to and we see less harmful material escaping
bile from the liver—by engaging a network of into the bloodstream. The result is a decreased

SUMMER 2018 Wise Traditions 33