Page 64 - Spring2020
P. 64

Technology as Servant

            MEALS IN A BOX: THE GOOD, THE BAD AND THE UNSUSTAINABLE

                                                 By John Moody







               Meal kits         Over the past decade, meal kits (or what  Particular brands vary in terms of frequency
                  involve     I call “meals in a box”) have become one of  of delivery and dietary accommodations, with
                              the fastest growing segments of the U.S. food  some offering gluten-free, dairy-free, soy-free
                  varying     economy, with annual growth estimated at 25 to  or other options.

              degrees of      30 percent.  Using a subscription model, online   Meal kits fall into two broad categories.
                                       1
            preparation       companies offer a wide variety of home-deliv-  Some are almost (or even completely) ready to
                              ered meal options. In addition, supermarkets  eat right out of the box after reheating or cook-
                   by the     are entering the fray, offering in-store meal kits,  ing. Others involve varying degrees of prepara-
           purchaser—         which accounted for ninety-three million dollars  tion by the purchaser—in some cases, quite a
                                           2
                 in some      in sales in 2018.                        bit of preparation and more than we expected.
                                 While not a new idea, the latest meal kit  Let’s dive into the details of these semi- to-fully
          cases, quite a      concept seeks to take convenience to a whole  prepared meals delivered right to your door.
                    bit of    new level for the growing number of Americans
           preparation.       who cannot or will not take the time to prepare  PLASTIC AND PACKAGING
                                                                           The first thing you will notice with most
                              food for themselves, or who want cooking tasks
                              to be made as simple as possible. Offering “some  meal kit services is the tremendous amount of
                              variation of the following,” consumers pay  plastic and packaging used. All the items come
                              between sixty and one hundred eighty dollars  encased in plastic, sometimes right down to
                              per week and “receive at their doorstep a decon-  rather small amounts of seasonings, marinades
                              structed meal in a cardboard box—premeasured  and sweeteners. Insulated boxes are also crucial
                              groceries, step-by-step recipe instructions, and  for these services. It is startling to realize, but
                              the almost-realized fantasy of a home-cooked  a few pounds of food may be accompanied by
                              meal.”                                   a few pounds of packaging.
                                   3
                                 But how do these services stack up? Our   Not all companies are equal with regard to
                              household tested kits of various kinds from a  packaging. Some use less—or use more sustain-
                              half dozen companies, and I interviewed people  able, recyclable or lower-environmental-impact
                              who had used over a dozen more. While wading  options. Generally, the more “ready to eat” the
                              through the options, I found that there is a com-  meal, the less total packaging is involved.
                              pany for almost every conceivable diet—from   In many parts of the country, recycling isn’t
                              vegan and vegetarian to ketogenic and paleo.  available for most of the packaging materials


                                            SUMMARY OF MEAL KIT SERVICES

            COST: Ranges from around eight to nine dollars per person per meal on the low end to as much as $12 to $14 on
            the high end. Generally, the more meals you get from a service, the lower the cost per meal.

            CONVENIENCE: Meal preparation can take as little as a few minutes to over an hour. Typical for many services is
            an estimated prep time of twenty to forty-five minutes.

            CHOICES: We found that only a few companies, mostly paleo, had high-quality ingredients. All of the meal services
            allow some degree of customization, but it varies greatly from company to company.

         64                                       Wise Traditions                                 SPRING 2020
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