ULTRA-PASTURIZED MILK: AN ULTRA-BAD IDEA
In the early 1990s, the famous âGot Milk?â ad campaignâan âadÂvertising-turned-pop-cultureâ phenomenon in the U.S.âsought to reverse the downward trendš in milk consumption by using celebrities to market milk as âsomething that had a kind of panache.â² Sales of conventional milk continued to slump, however, as more and more consumersâmost often momsâfigured out that the industrial-model product wasnât the healthy food promised by the billboards. The savviest mothers took their families straight to raw milk (and continue to do so to this day), but many others turned to pasteurized organic milk. By 2007, Reuters was reporting growth in consumer demand for organic milk of 25 percent annually.Âł
At first blush, organic milk sounds appealing, with selling points said to include a higher vitamin content (due to cows grazing on pasture), more humane treatment of the animals and freedom from the pesticides, antibiotics and boÂvine growth hormone (bGH) that perÂsist as features of conventional milk.4 A 2019 study generated more buzz for organic milk when researchers reported detectable levels of a wide range of difÂferent pesticides in 26 to 60 percent of conventional milk samples âbut in none of the organic samplesâ collected at reÂtail sites across the U.S.5 In that study, three out of five conventional samples (but again, no organic samples) also contained antibiotic residues, with some exceeding Food and Drug AdministraÂtion (FDA) limits. Conventional producersâ use of synthetic bGH also meant that median bGH levels were twenty times higher in conventional versus organic products. Three âlegacy pesticidesâ with a lengthy soil half-life were the only exception to this pattern, present in nearly all samples, both conventional and organic.5
The 2019 studyâs results may have seemed like a signpost pointing toward organic milk, but pasteurized organic milk bears close scrutiny for other reasons. In addition to the fact that corporate producers tend to operate on a factory farm model that belies their groovy organic image, the majority also share another malignant practice: 80 percent of the organic milk sold in U.S. supermarkets is ultra-high temperature (UHT) pasteurized.6 Sometimes referred to simply as âultra-pasteurized,â UHT milk is heated to 280 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit (138â149 degrees Celsius) for two to six secÂonds,7 well beyond milkâs boiling point of 212°F (100°C). In comparison, the original âvatâ or âbatchâ method of pasteurization heats milk to 145°F (63°C) for thirty minutes.8 Another pasÂteurization method, âhigh-temperature short-timeâ (HTST) pasteurization, heats the milk to 161°F (72°C) for a minimum of fifteen seconds.9
Dairy experts justify all forms of heat treatment in the context of a âhundred-year war indiscriminately waged against all bacteria,â fueled by historiÂcal circumstances that no lonÂger apply.10 As one blogger has observed, when members of the public are propagandized to fear raw milk and embrace pasteurizaÂtion, they are likely to reason, âIf pasteurized is good, then ultra-pasteurized must be even better, right?â11 However, where UHT milk is concerned, dairy scientists admit that the crass commercial consideration of shelf life is a major factor behind its escalatÂing use.12
When milk processors use vat or HTST methods (already deÂstroying valuable enzymes and denaturing some proteins in the bargain), their end product only has a shelf life of about a week. The kamikaze UHT approach goes much further, indiscrimiÂnately killing or denaturing nutrients, enzymes and proteins, butâand this is the principal reason why it seems to be so alluring to producÂersâextending the shelf life of the unopened and unrefrigerated product to a staggering six to nine months.13 As cheerily explained by the multinational Tetra Pak (not only a food packÂaging giant but also a leading supplier of UHT processing equipment), âWith no refrigeration required, as well as easy storage and transport, it is no surprise that many producers see UHT milk as a great choice for organic milk.â14 Also according to the convoluted logic of Tetra Pak, which has the chutzpah to describe UHT milk as âfresh milk with no preservatives,â the reason most organic milk undergoes UHT processing is âbecause organic farms are not in every region of the country, and organic milk needs to travel even farther for many markets.â15
Not spelled out by Tetra Pak in its boastful marketing pitches is the fact that UHT milk processing favors Big Ag. The dairy equipment supplier Milky Day, which describes its main clients as small dairy farms and âindividuals who have a couple of cows, sheep, goats, or any other animals that give milk,â16 explains that âultra-pasteurized milk is not a viable option for most [small-scale] farmers because of high equipment expenses.â17 And when large comÂmercial dairies command the resources not only to acquire the specialized UHT equipment but also to transport their product with its super-duper shelf life across great distances, they have yet another tool to drive smaller dairies out of business and decouple milk from local communities.18
Outside the U.S., similar trends are unfoldÂing; UHT milk (without even the veneer of an âorganicâ label) has âmore or less conquered the milk market in many places in the world.â19 Its consumption is currently rising in the Asia PaÂcific, Australia, Eastern Europe, Latin America, the Middle East and Africa.20 Globally, about a third (34 percent) of the liquid milk consumed is UHT milk, but in certain regions (such as South Africa), UHT products have grabbed more than half (53 percent) of the market share.20 An inÂdustry marketer who describes UHT technology as âa God-sent innovationâ happily notes that in areas where the electricity supply is erratic or where households lack refrigeration, those factors âincentivize many to gravitate towards UHT milkâ; the colorful clincher, that writer adds, is that UHT technology makes âit possible for milk, a highly perishable product, to be conÂsumed in regions as remote as Kalukwakerith village in the northernmost part of Kenya.â20
When producers first introduced UHT milk in the United States in the early 1990s, they disÂcovered that the productâs chief marketing point overseasâits ability, when unopened, to sit out at room temperature without refrigerationâwas a source of distrust for U.S. consumers, who prefer cold milk. Consequently, as the Food Renegade blog explains, âmilk producers got creativeâ and sold the extended-shelf-life milk âin normal packaging, in the refrigerator aisleâ as an end run around consumer objections.6
Americansâ belief that milk belongs in the fridge has made them the butt of some judgmental press, with Readerâs Digest dismisÂsively stating that Americans initially rejected UHT milk because they have an âobsession with refrigeration.â21 In a Tasting Table article for foodie travelers that lauds UHT milk as a âmodern marvel,â another journalist sarcastiÂcally writes:
âThere is no place that holds equal parts horror and delight [for American travelers] like a grocery store in a foreign country. [âŚ] But most unsettling of all, particularly in countries like France, are the rows of unrefrigerated milk cartons that make forÂeigners do a double take. Were they left out by accident? Has something gone terribly wrong? Fret not, travelers. Thatâs exactly where theyâre supposed to be.â22
DEAD ON ARRIVAL
For consumers who give UHT milk a closer look, âhorrorâ is indeed a common response, but not for the reasons implied by the Tasting Table writer. A blogger who investigated the various pasteurized options writes about how she came to the realization that neither convenÂtional pasteurized milk nor organic UHT milk were healthy: âI can fill my kidsâ glasses with synthetic growth hormones and antibiotics or I can give them âmilkâ that is so dead that those quotation marks are justified.â11
Other observersâconsumers and researchÂers alikeâagree with the characterization of UHT milk as âdead.â6 Using slightly more diploÂmatic (but still evocative) phrasing, a 2017 BBC article about UHT milk recast the lifelessness caused by UHTâs âbrief, intense heatâ as âodd qualities,â19 including:
- An unraveling or unfurling of whey proÂteins that turns them into âlimp strandsâ
- Falling-apart enzymes that leave UHT milk unusable for fermentation purposes such as cheese-making
- A burnt taste resulting from a chemical reaction between the milkâs proteins and sugars (called a Maillard Reaction)
- An âeggy stenchâ or âcooked tangâ from sulfur compounds created by the UHT process.23
In dairy-scientist-speak, âundesirable effectsââproduced by both processing and lengthy storageâinclude âbrowning, emulsion instability. . . and formation of off-flavoursâ as well as loss of nutrients.12 Some of these effects occur because, though UHT treatment kills off âworking enzymes,â at least one enzyme (plasÂmin) is heat-resistant and does not fall apart. Plasmin induces the breakdown of proteins (proteolysis).24 Says the BBC, plasmin âwill go around slicing up various proteins, releasing them from whatever they were doing before and allowing them to form attachments to each other.â19 In UHT milk, this can create clumpy âgel-like agglomerations,â an irreversible process called âage gelationâ25; the increased viscosity can make ultra-pasteurized milk difÂficult to pour.19
Back in 2004, Linda Joyce Forristal sumÂmarized some of the research on UHT milk for the Weston A. Price Foundation and commented on the timeline for some of the âodd qualitiesâ and âundesirable effectsâ that already were well documented. She noted that the sulfur compounds formed during heating âimpart a very strong cabbagy off-flavor. . . that is most noticeable immediately after heatingâ; although the compounds dissipate, âapproximately one month into storage, UHT milk begins to deteriorate and is described in the industry as âstale,ââ over time becoming not just gelatinous but bitter.18 Forristalâs conclusion: â[I]t seems the optimum time to drink UHT milk with any degree of enjoyment, if thatâs even possible, is limited to the interval between the dissipation of the cabbage flavor and the onset of staleness, bitterness and gelatinous conditions.â Milky Day suggests that pretty much any other type of milkâraw or even the other forms of pasteurÂized milkââwill be more delicious than the UHT variety.â17
In a 2017 study by Brazilian scientists who assessed UHT whole milk samples from six leading dairy companies selling in Brazil and elsewhere in South America, the researchers exÂpressed concern when they discovered that all of the analyzed samples had âsignificant potential to cause toxicity at the cellular levelâ as well as having genotoxic and mutagenic effects.26 They also raised the possibility that manufacturers might be adding âmicroingredientsâ to UHT milk to maintain pleasing âorganolepticâ (senÂsory) properties, noting âgreat concern on the part of health professionals and food surveilÂlance agencies as to the addition of chemical compounds not allowed by law by the relevant regulatory agencies.â26 In her 2004 article, ForÂristal likewise pondered whether the industry might be surreptitiously adding âflavorings or other chemicalsâ to try to mask the bad taste.18 Interestingly, in 2018, NestlĂŠ acknowledged that it had been adding âstabilizersâ to UHT milk sold in Brazil (despite long shelf life being the productâs central virtue!) and pledged to remove them, vowing that it would revert to having âonly simple and recognizable ingredients on the labels.â27
INDIGESTIBLE AND ALLERGENIC
Off-flavors and gelatinous textures are far from the only problems with UHT milk. In addition to killing off the âgoodâ bacteria that help keep âbadâ bacteria in check, ultra-pasteurization denatures casein and whey, the major proteins in milk. The âextra heat. . . breaks some of the structural bonds in the protein, thereby causing it to elongate,â affecting âhow it behaves in your bodyâ28 and making the milk extremely difficult to digest.
The Food Renegade blog sums this up well in a post titled âJust say no to UHT milkâ:
âThe components of raw milk are extremely fragile. The milk proteins are complex and three dimensional, meant to be broken down when digested by special enzymes that fit into the proteins like pieces of a jigsaw puzzle. When you rapidly heat milk, it denatures the proteins, flattening them so the enzymes canât do what theyâre supÂposed to do. In other words, it makes the milk protein significantly harder to digest! [âŚ] No wonder more and more people are starting to think of themselves as intolerant to casein. . . . Not only do pasteurization and UHT processing kill off the enzymes presÂent in milk needed to digest the casein, the casein itself is altered to the point of being indigestible!â6
In 2021, Austrian researchers reported that âlittle is known about the effect of UHT processing in the context of allergyâ but agreed that âthermal processing of proteins can affect their 3D structureâ in ways that are relevant to allergenicity.29 Cowâs milk allergy is the most prevalent allergy affecting U.S. infants.30 A 2020 report described a case of eosinophilic esophagitis (EoE), an allergic condition of the esophagus, in a nine-year-old boy with pre-exÂisting allergies and asthma who switched from âregularly pasteurizedâ to ultra-pasteurized (UP) milk; the EoE manifested as âepisodes of abdominal pain, intermittent nausea, ocÂcasional vomiting, and post-prandial cough.â31 The authors note that âmass commercial adopÂtion of UP and UHT dairy products in the USA roughly parallels the time frame in which EoE has emerged as a medical problem,â and they ask whether âthe newer methods of processing milk are at the genesis of EoE by altering protein structure and their allergenicity.â31
Regarding nutrition, Tetra Pakâs claim that the nutritional difference between ultra-pasteurized milk and âotherâ milk is âminimal, if not altogether negligibleâ14 strains credulity, especially given the fact that even boiling milk is known to decrease milkâs nutritional value significantly, including reducing B vitamins by as much as 36 percent, according to WebMD.32 Back in 1982, researchers had already discovÂered that the protein denaturation resulting from ordinary pasteurization lessened absorption of folate (a B vitamin).33 WebMD is willing to give HTST pasteurization a pass, claiming that pasteurized milk âtypically [is] fortified with vitamins and minerals to replace those few that may be lost in the heating processâ; it does not even discuss the nutritional impact of ultra-pasteurization temperatures, which dramatically exceed both HTST and boiling temperatures.32
In a study published in 2021, researchers from France and New Zealand lamented the dearth of studies measuring protein and fat metabolism in humans after consumption of heat-treated milk.34 Nevertheless, the limited findings that are available suggest an association between consumption of heat-treated milk and reduced absorption of nutrients, which in turn is associated with gastrointestinal disorders and inflammatory bowel disease.34
SLEEPING SPORES AND HEAT-RESISTANT ENZYMES
Sally Fallon Morell has described how listeÂria outbreaks from pasteurized milk in the mid- 1980s35 exposed the pasteurization techniques of that era as unable to accomplish their stated goal of preventing such outbreaks. In fact, CenÂters for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) scientists reported in 1987 that one dairy plant producing two brands of pasteurized 2 percent milk was responsible for close to two hundred thousand cases of antimicrobial-resistant salÂmonellosis in Illinois; they concluded that the strain had ârepeatedly contaminated milk after pasteurization.â36 Morell notes that the unfortuÂnate lesson the industry took from those events âwas not to go cleaner, but to go hotterââwith UHT pasteurization.37
However, even ultra-pasteurization is not doing the trick, as research on âtoughâ structures called endospores makes plain. EnÂdospores allow certain bacteriaâsuch as the robust Bacillus species (not to be confused with Lactobacillus species)ââto lie dormant for extended periodsâ (âeven centuries,â says Wikipedia) and to reactivate under favorable environmental conditions.38 Although ultra-pasteurization is said to kill âmostâ bacterial spores, dairy experts acknowledge that âsome of those remaining spores may come active and cause problems,â especially under hotter storage conditions.19 A Tunisian study that looked at âspore-forming bacteria occurrence throughout the UHT milk production line durÂing winter, spring, and summerâ found that the spore-forming bacteria exhibited âhigh heat resistance,â particularly in the spring and sumÂmer seasons.39 According to a 2022 study of spore-forming Bacillus cereus, heat treatment of milk can in fact âact as an activator of spore germination.â40
Studies also show that psychrotrophic bacteria (microbes able to grow at temperatures below 45°F [7°C]) âcan proliferate and conÂtribute to spoilageâ of UHT milk due to their ability to produce âspoilage enzymesâ that are âheat resistant from pasteurization up to UHT level.â41 European and Brazilian researchers remarked in 2017 that the âresidual activityâ of these enzymes following high heat treatment could lead to âtechnological problemsâ such as sedimentation, gelation and rancidity âduring the shelf life of milk and dairy products,â as well as generating the types of âflavor defectsâ discussed earlier.41 Noting that â[r]educing the activity and/or limiting the secretion of heat-resistant hydrolytic enzymes of psychrotrophic bacteria is a scientific challengeâ and that âreducing their activity by heating seems to be very difficult,â the researchers concluded, âThis problem is of increasing importance because of the large worldwide trade in fluid milk and milk powder.â41
WHITHER UHT?
Researchers who acknowledge the fact that raw milk is highly nutritious marvel at its âwide microbial biodiversity, with more than 150 species identified,â and note that this microbial diversity is at the heart of the geography-specific wealth of traditional dairy products around the world.41 They also note that âa large fraction of the milk microbiota is still unexplored,â with almost one in five isolates from raw milk (18 perÂcent) belonging to âhitherto unknown species.â41
Rather than admire the stunning intricaÂcies of ânatureâs perfect food,â the conventional dairy industry seems determined to continue bulldozing them out of the way. Tetra Pakâs latest marketing ploy is its âground-breaking OneStep technology which combines separaÂtion, standardization, blending, and heat treatÂment in a single step,â starting from raw milk or milk powder.42 OneStep reportedly shortens processing time from a couple of days to âjust a few hours.â
The Weston A. Price Foundation and other entities like the Raw Milk Institute have long pointed out the distinction between the high-risk raw milk âintended for pasteurizationââmilk commingled from multiple confinement dairÂies and âproduced in conditions where animal health is compromised,â with âa corresponding high rate of pathogensââand the low-risk raw milk that so many Americans are now able to enjoy, âcarefully and intentionally produced for direct human consumption.â43 Anyone who takes the trouble to learn the basic facts about raw milkâs numerous advantagesâfor both consumers and producersâis likely to see through UHT technologyâs false promises and keep UHT dairy products, organic or not, far from the family table.
SIDEBAR
ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES
An October 2023 promotional feature in Dairy Reporter (with content paid for and provided by Tetra Pak) celebrates the âevolutionâ of UHT milk and the endless possibilities for creating loyal customers.42 According to the puff piece, UHT milk is ânaturally nutritiousâ but âcan easily be transformed to meet specific consumer desires for further functional benefits.â Tetra Pak suggests that UHT milk can cater to a variety of niche markets:
- Fortified UHT milk with synthetic vitamin D or zinc for post-Covid-19 consumers who are âlooking for immunity-boosting elementsâ
- UHT milk blended with chamomile for those suffering from mental-health-related insomnia
- Flavored UHT milk products for those looking to reduce their sugar consumption
- Protein-enriched drinks for âhealth and fitness enthusiastsâ who appreciate âUHT milkâs on-the-go convenienceâ
In addition to â[e]xploring new tastes, adding functionality, and even incorporating particlesââthe corporation declines to spell out what it means by âparticlesââTetra Pak also promises a âdiverse range of packaging solutionsâ that make it possible âto craft a distinctive package that. . . stands out on the shelfâ and âengagesâ with consumers.
Food scientists are also exploring probiotics for dairy products that can survive UHT treatment. One entrepreneur explains that after the product passes through heat treatment, âthe probiotics retain their viability and are shelf-stable. . . at ambient temperature for a typical storage period of 10-12 months.â44 The alleged dual benefit is that it âsimplifies the manufacturing process and improves safetyâ: âFrom a food safety perspective, you are very safe in the knowledge that everything thatâs been added in your product has been heat-treated.â
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This article appeared in Wise Traditions in Food, Farming and the Healing Arts, the quarterly journal of the Weston A. Price Foundation, Spring 2024
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Nancy says
How might culturing UHT milk into yogurt or kefir change it’s harmful qualities?