ULTRA-PASTURIZED MILK: AN ULTRA-BAD IDEA
In the early 1990s, the famous “Got Milk?” ad campaign—an “advertising-turned-pop-culture” phenomenon in the U.S.—sought to reverse the downward trend¹ in milk consumption by using celebrities to market milk as “something that had a kind of panache.”² Sales of conventional milk continued to slump, however, as more and more consumers—most often moms—figured out that the industrial-model product wasn’t the healthy food promised by the billboards. The savviest mothers took their families straight to raw milk (and continue to do so to this day), but many others turned to pasteurized organic milk. By 2007, Reuters was reporting growth in consumer demand for organic milk of 25 percent annually.³
At first blush, organic milk sounds appealing, with selling points said to include a higher vitamin content (due to cows grazing on pasture), more humane treatment of the animals and freedom from the pesticides, antibiotics and bovine growth hormone (bGH) that persist as features of conventional milk.4 A 2019 study generated more buzz for organic milk when researchers reported detectable levels of a wide range of different pesticides in 26 to 60 percent of conventional milk samples “but in none of the organic samples” collected at retail sites across the U.S.5 In that study, three out of five conventional samples (but again, no organic samples) also contained antibiotic residues, with some exceeding Food and Drug Administration (FDA) limits. Conventional producers’ use of synthetic bGH also meant that median bGH levels were twenty times higher in conventional versus organic products. Three “legacy pesticides” with a lengthy soil half-life were the only exception to this pattern, present in nearly all samples, both conventional and organic.5
The 2019 study’s results may have seemed like a signpost pointing toward organic milk, but pasteurized organic milk bears close scrutiny for other reasons. In addition to the fact that corporate producers tend to operate on a factory farm model that belies their groovy organic image, the majority also share another malignant practice: 80 percent of the organic milk sold in U.S. supermarkets is ultra-high temperature (UHT) pasteurized.6 Sometimes referred to simply as “ultra-pasteurized,” UHT milk is heated to 280 to 300 degrees Fahrenheit (138–149 degrees Celsius) for two to six seconds,7 well beyond milk’s boiling point of 212°F (100°C). In comparison, the original “vat” or “batch” method of pasteurization heats milk to 145°F (63°C) for thirty minutes.8 Another pasteurization method, “high-temperature short-time” (HTST) pasteurization, heats the milk to 161°F (72°C) for a minimum of fifteen seconds.9
Dairy experts justify all forms of heat treatment in the context of a “hundred-year war indiscriminately waged against all bacteria,” fueled by historical circumstances that no longer apply.10 As one blogger has observed, when members of the public are propagandized to fear raw milk and embrace pasteurization, they are likely to reason, “If pasteurized is good, then ultra-pasteurized must be even better, right?”11 However, where UHT milk is concerned, dairy scientists admit that the crass commercial consideration of shelf life is a major factor behind its escalating use.12

When milk processors use vat or HTST methods (already destroying valuable enzymes and denaturing some proteins in the bargain), their end product only has a shelf life of about a week. The kamikaze UHT approach goes much further, indiscriminately killing or denaturing nutrients, enzymes and proteins, but—and this is the principal reason why it seems to be so alluring to producers—extending the shelf life of the unopened and unrefrigerated product to a staggering six to nine months.13 As cheerily explained by the multinational Tetra Pak (not only a food packaging giant but also a leading supplier of UHT processing equipment), “With no refrigeration required, as well as easy storage and transport, it is no surprise that many producers see UHT milk as a great choice for organic milk.”14 Also according to the convoluted logic of Tetra Pak, which has the chutzpah to describe UHT milk as “fresh milk with no preservatives,” the reason most organic milk undergoes UHT processing is “because organic farms are not in every region of the country, and organic milk needs to travel even farther for many markets.”15
Not spelled out by Tetra Pak in its boastful marketing pitches is the fact that UHT milk processing favors Big Ag. The dairy equipment supplier Milky Day, which describes its main clients as small dairy farms and “individuals who have a couple of cows, sheep, goats, or any other animals that give milk,”16 explains that “ultra-pasteurized milk is not a viable option for most [small-scale] farmers because of high equipment expenses.”17 And when large commercial dairies command the resources not only to acquire the specialized UHT equipment but also to transport their product with its super-duper shelf life across great distances, they have yet another tool to drive smaller dairies out of business and decouple milk from local communities.18
Outside the U.S., similar trends are unfolding; UHT milk (without even the veneer of an “organic” label) has “more or less conquered the milk market in many places in the world.”19 Its consumption is currently rising in the Asia Pacific, Australia, Eastern Europe, Latin America, the Middle East and Africa.20 Globally, about a third (34 percent) of the liquid milk consumed is UHT milk, but in certain regions (such as South Africa), UHT products have grabbed more than half (53 percent) of the market share.20 An industry marketer who describes UHT technology as “a God-sent innovation” happily notes that in areas where the electricity supply is erratic or where households lack refrigeration, those factors “incentivize many to gravitate towards UHT milk”; the colorful clincher, that writer adds, is that UHT technology makes “it possible for milk, a highly perishable product, to be consumed in regions as remote as Kalukwakerith village in the northernmost part of Kenya.”20
When producers first introduced UHT milk in the United States in the early 1990s, they discovered that the product’s chief marketing point overseas—its ability, when unopened, to sit out at room temperature without refrigeration—was a source of distrust for U.S. consumers, who prefer cold milk. Consequently, as the Food Renegade blog explains, “milk producers got creative” and sold the extended-shelf-life milk “in normal packaging, in the refrigerator aisle” as an end run around consumer objections.6
Americans’ belief that milk belongs in the fridge has made them the butt of some judgmental press, with Reader’s Digest dismissively stating that Americans initially rejected UHT milk because they have an “obsession with refrigeration.”21 In a Tasting Table article for foodie travelers that lauds UHT milk as a “modern marvel,” another journalist sarcastically writes:
“There is no place that holds equal parts horror and delight [for American travelers] like a grocery store in a foreign country. […] But most unsettling of all, particularly in countries like France, are the rows of unrefrigerated milk cartons that make foreigners do a double take. Were they left out by accident? Has something gone terribly wrong? Fret not, travelers. That’s exactly where they’re supposed to be.”22
DEAD ON ARRIVAL
For consumers who give UHT milk a closer look, “horror” is indeed a common response, but not for the reasons implied by the Tasting Table writer. A blogger who investigated the various pasteurized options writes about how she came to the realization that neither conventional pasteurized milk nor organic UHT milk were healthy: “I can fill my kids’ glasses with synthetic growth hormones and antibiotics or I can give them ‘milk’ that is so dead that those quotation marks are justified.”11
Other observers—consumers and researchers alike—agree with the characterization of UHT milk as “dead.”6 Using slightly more diplomatic (but still evocative) phrasing, a 2017 BBC article about UHT milk recast the lifelessness caused by UHT’s “brief, intense heat” as “odd qualities,”19 including:
- An unraveling or unfurling of whey proteins that turns them into “limp strands”
- Falling-apart enzymes that leave UHT milk unusable for fermentation purposes such as cheese-making
- A burnt taste resulting from a chemical reaction between the milk’s proteins and sugars (called a Maillard Reaction)
- An “eggy stench” or “cooked tang” from sulfur compounds created by the UHT process.23
In dairy-scientist-speak, “undesirable effects”—produced by both processing and lengthy storage—include “browning, emulsion instability. . . and formation of off-flavours” as well as loss of nutrients.12 Some of these effects occur because, though UHT treatment kills off “working enzymes,” at least one enzyme (plasmin) is heat-resistant and does not fall apart. Plasmin induces the breakdown of proteins (proteolysis).24 Says the BBC, plasmin “will go around slicing up various proteins, releasing them from whatever they were doing before and allowing them to form attachments to each other.”19 In UHT milk, this can create clumpy “gel-like agglomerations,” an irreversible process called “age gelation”25; the increased viscosity can make ultra-pasteurized milk difficult to pour.19
Back in 2004, Linda Joyce Forristal summarized some of the research on UHT milk for the Weston A. Price Foundation and commented on the timeline for some of the “odd qualities” and “undesirable effects” that already were well documented. She noted that the sulfur compounds formed during heating “impart a very strong cabbagy off-flavor. . . that is most noticeable immediately after heating”; although the compounds dissipate, “approximately one month into storage, UHT milk begins to deteriorate and is described in the industry as ‘stale,’” over time becoming not just gelatinous but bitter.18 Forristal’s conclusion: “[I]t seems the optimum time to drink UHT milk with any degree of enjoyment, if that’s even possible, is limited to the interval between the dissipation of the cabbage flavor and the onset of staleness, bitterness and gelatinous conditions.” Milky Day suggests that pretty much any other type of milk—raw or even the other forms of pasteurized milk—“will be more delicious than the UHT variety.”17
In a 2017 study by Brazilian scientists who assessed UHT whole milk samples from six leading dairy companies selling in Brazil and elsewhere in South America, the researchers expressed concern when they discovered that all of the analyzed samples had “significant potential to cause toxicity at the cellular level” as well as having genotoxic and mutagenic effects.26 They also raised the possibility that manufacturers might be adding “microingredients” to UHT milk to maintain pleasing “organoleptic” (sensory) properties, noting “great concern on the part of health professionals and food surveillance agencies as to the addition of chemical compounds not allowed by law by the relevant regulatory agencies.”26 In her 2004 article, Forristal likewise pondered whether the industry might be surreptitiously adding “flavorings or other chemicals” to try to mask the bad taste.18 Interestingly, in 2018, Nestlé acknowledged that it had been adding “stabilizers” to UHT milk sold in Brazil (despite long shelf life being the product’s central virtue!) and pledged to remove them, vowing that it would revert to having “only simple and recognizable ingredients on the labels.”27
INDIGESTIBLE AND ALLERGENIC
Off-flavors and gelatinous textures are far from the only problems with UHT milk. In addition to killing off the “good” bacteria that help keep “bad” bacteria in check, ultra-pasteurization denatures casein and whey, the major proteins in milk. The “extra heat. . . breaks some of the structural bonds in the protein, thereby causing it to elongate,” affecting “how it behaves in your body”28 and making the milk extremely difficult to digest.
The Food Renegade blog sums this up well in a post titled “Just say no to UHT milk”:
“The components of raw milk are extremely fragile. The milk proteins are complex and three dimensional, meant to be broken down when digested by special enzymes that fit into the proteins like pieces of a jigsaw puzzle. When you rapidly heat milk, it denatures the proteins, flattening them so the enzymes can’t do what they’re supposed to do. In other words, it makes the milk protein significantly harder to digest! […] No wonder more and more people are starting to think of themselves as intolerant to casein. . . . Not only do pasteurization and UHT processing kill off the enzymes present in milk needed to digest the casein, the casein itself is altered to the point of being indigestible!”6
In 2021, Austrian researchers reported that “little is known about the effect of UHT processing in the context of allergy” but agreed that “thermal processing of proteins can affect their 3D structure” in ways that are relevant to allergenicity.29 Cow’s milk allergy is the most prevalent allergy affecting U.S. infants.30 A 2020 report described a case of eosinophilic esophagitis (EoE), an allergic condition of the esophagus, in a nine-year-old boy with pre-existing allergies and asthma who switched from “regularly pasteurized” to ultra-pasteurized (UP) milk; the EoE manifested as “episodes of abdominal pain, intermittent nausea, occasional vomiting, and post-prandial cough.”31 The authors note that “mass commercial adoption of UP and UHT dairy products in the USA roughly parallels the time frame in which EoE has emerged as a medical problem,” and they ask whether “the newer methods of processing milk are at the genesis of EoE by altering protein structure and their allergenicity.”31
Regarding nutrition, Tetra Pak’s claim that the nutritional difference between ultra-pasteurized milk and “other” milk is “minimal, if not altogether negligible”14 strains credulity, especially given the fact that even boiling milk is known to decrease milk’s nutritional value significantly, including reducing B vitamins by as much as 36 percent, according to WebMD.32 Back in 1982, researchers had already discovered that the protein denaturation resulting from ordinary pasteurization lessened absorption of folate (a B vitamin).33 WebMD is willing to give HTST pasteurization a pass, claiming that pasteurized milk “typically [is] fortified with vitamins and minerals to replace those few that may be lost in the heating process”; it does not even discuss the nutritional impact of ultra-pasteurization temperatures, which dramatically exceed both HTST and boiling temperatures.32
In a study published in 2021, researchers from France and New Zealand lamented the dearth of studies measuring protein and fat metabolism in humans after consumption of heat-treated milk.34 Nevertheless, the limited findings that are available suggest an association between consumption of heat-treated milk and reduced absorption of nutrients, which in turn is associated with gastrointestinal disorders and inflammatory bowel disease.34
SLEEPING SPORES AND HEAT-RESISTANT ENZYMES
Sally Fallon Morell has described how listeria outbreaks from pasteurized milk in the mid- 1980s35 exposed the pasteurization techniques of that era as unable to accomplish their stated goal of preventing such outbreaks. In fact, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) scientists reported in 1987 that one dairy plant producing two brands of pasteurized 2 percent milk was responsible for close to two hundred thousand cases of antimicrobial-resistant salmonellosis in Illinois; they concluded that the strain had “repeatedly contaminated milk after pasteurization.”36 Morell notes that the unfortunate lesson the industry took from those events “was not to go cleaner, but to go hotter”—with UHT pasteurization.37
However, even ultra-pasteurization is not doing the trick, as research on “tough” structures called endospores makes plain. Endospores allow certain bacteria—such as the robust Bacillus species (not to be confused with Lactobacillus species)—“to lie dormant for extended periods” (“even centuries,” says Wikipedia) and to reactivate under favorable environmental conditions.38 Although ultra-pasteurization is said to kill “most” bacterial spores, dairy experts acknowledge that “some of those remaining spores may come active and cause problems,” especially under hotter storage conditions.19 A Tunisian study that looked at “spore-forming bacteria occurrence throughout the UHT milk production line during winter, spring, and summer” found that the spore-forming bacteria exhibited “high heat resistance,” particularly in the spring and summer seasons.39 According to a 2022 study of spore-forming Bacillus cereus, heat treatment of milk can in fact “act as an activator of spore germination.”40
Studies also show that psychrotrophic bacteria (microbes able to grow at temperatures below 45°F [7°C]) “can proliferate and contribute to spoilage” of UHT milk due to their ability to produce “spoilage enzymes” that are “heat resistant from pasteurization up to UHT level.”41 European and Brazilian researchers remarked in 2017 that the “residual activity” of these enzymes following high heat treatment could lead to “technological problems” such as sedimentation, gelation and rancidity “during the shelf life of milk and dairy products,” as well as generating the types of “flavor defects” discussed earlier.41 Noting that “[r]educing the activity and/or limiting the secretion of heat-resistant hydrolytic enzymes of psychrotrophic bacteria is a scientific challenge” and that “reducing their activity by heating seems to be very difficult,” the researchers concluded, “This problem is of increasing importance because of the large worldwide trade in fluid milk and milk powder.”41
WHITHER UHT?
Researchers who acknowledge the fact that raw milk is highly nutritious marvel at its “wide microbial biodiversity, with more than 150 species identified,” and note that this microbial diversity is at the heart of the geography-specific wealth of traditional dairy products around the world.41 They also note that “a large fraction of the milk microbiota is still unexplored,” with almost one in five isolates from raw milk (18 percent) belonging to “hitherto unknown species.”41
Rather than admire the stunning intricacies of “nature’s perfect food,” the conventional dairy industry seems determined to continue bulldozing them out of the way. Tetra Pak’s latest marketing ploy is its “ground-breaking OneStep technology which combines separation, standardization, blending, and heat treatment in a single step,” starting from raw milk or milk powder.42 OneStep reportedly shortens processing time from a couple of days to “just a few hours.”
The Weston A. Price Foundation and other entities like the Raw Milk Institute have long pointed out the distinction between the high-risk raw milk “intended for pasteurization”—milk commingled from multiple confinement dairies and “produced in conditions where animal health is compromised,” with “a corresponding high rate of pathogens”—and the low-risk raw milk that so many Americans are now able to enjoy, “carefully and intentionally produced for direct human consumption.”43 Anyone who takes the trouble to learn the basic facts about raw milk’s numerous advantages—for both consumers and producers—is likely to see through UHT technology’s false promises and keep UHT dairy products, organic or not, far from the family table.
SIDEBAR
ENDLESS POSSIBILITIES
An October 2023 promotional feature in Dairy Reporter (with content paid for and provided by Tetra Pak) celebrates the “evolution” of UHT milk and the endless possibilities for creating loyal customers.42 According to the puff piece, UHT milk is “naturally nutritious” but “can easily be transformed to meet specific consumer desires for further functional benefits.” Tetra Pak suggests that UHT milk can cater to a variety of niche markets:
- Fortified UHT milk with synthetic vitamin D or zinc for post-Covid-19 consumers who are “looking for immunity-boosting elements”
- UHT milk blended with chamomile for those suffering from mental-health-related insomnia
- Flavored UHT milk products for those looking to reduce their sugar consumption
- Protein-enriched drinks for “health and fitness enthusiasts” who appreciate “UHT milk’s on-the-go convenience”
In addition to “[e]xploring new tastes, adding functionality, and even incorporating particles”—the corporation declines to spell out what it means by “particles”—Tetra Pak also promises a “diverse range of packaging solutions” that make it possible “to craft a distinctive package that. . . stands out on the shelf” and “engages” with consumers.
Food scientists are also exploring probiotics for dairy products that can survive UHT treatment. One entrepreneur explains that after the product passes through heat treatment, “the probiotics retain their viability and are shelf-stable. . . at ambient temperature for a typical storage period of 10-12 months.”44 The alleged dual benefit is that it “simplifies the manufacturing process and improves safety”: “From a food safety perspective, you are very safe in the knowledge that everything that’s been added in your product has been heat-treated.”
REFERENCES
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- Daddona M. Got Milk? How the iconic campaign came to be, 25 years ago. Fast Company, Jun. 13, 2018.
- Organic milk seen flooding U.S. market. Reuters, Aug. 9, 2007.
- U.S. organic dairy market – statistics & facts. Statista, Dec. 14, 2023. https://www.statista.com/topics/4682/organic-dairy-market/
- Welsh JA, Braun H, Brown N, et al. Production-related contaminants (pesticides, antibiotics and hormones) in organic and conventionally produced milk samples sold in the USA. Public Health Nutr. 2019 Nov;22(16):2972-2980.
- Michaelis K. Just say no to UHT milk. Food Renegade, Jun. 4, 2020.
- McDowell J. Shelf-stable (aseptic) milk: everything you need to know. Dairy MAX, Jan. 1, 2022.
- https://www.zwirnerequipment.com/blog/what-is-vat-pasteurization/
- https://agclass.nal.usda.gov/vocabularies/nalt/concept?uri=https://lod.nal.usda.gov/nalt/67927
- McAfee M. The 15 things that milk pasteurization kills. A Campaign for Real Milk, Aug. 3, 2010. https://www.realmilk.com/15-things-that-milk-pasteurization-kills/
- Ashley. Ultra-pasteurized milk: who knew? Brood Farm, Apr. 14, 2012. http://www.broodfarm.com/broodingon/2012/04/ultra-pasteurized-milk-who-knew.html
- Sunds AV, Rauh VM, Sørensen J, et al. Maillard reaction progress in UHT milk during storage at different temperature levels and cycles. Int Dairy J. 2018 Feb;77:56-64.
- https://www.dairy.com.au/dairy-matters/you-ask-we-answer/how-long-does-uht-long-life-milk-last-once-opened
- UHT milk – separating the truth from the myths. Tetra Pak, n.d. https://www.tetrapak.com/en-us/insights/food-categories/dairy/kill-uht-milk-myth
- UHT milk FAQ. Tetra Pak, n.d. https://www.tetrapak.com/en-us/insights/food-categories/dairy/uht-faq
- https://milkyday.com/about-us
- Ultra pasteurized milk: Is it bad? How is it made? Milky Day, Nov. 18, 2019. https://milkyday.com/blog/2019/11/18/ultra-pasteurized-milk-is-it-bad-how-is-it-made/
- Forristal LJ. Ultra-pasteurized milk. Weston A. Price Foundation, May 23, 2004. https://www.westonaprice.org/health-topics/modern-foods/ultra-pasteurized-milk/
- Greenwood V. The milk that lasts for months. BBC, Mar. 27, 2017.
- Ndeda A. UHT milk continues to evolve to meet changing consumer tastes and preferences. Food Business Africa, Nov/Dec 2022. https://issuu.com/foodworldmedia/docs/fba_issue_55_digital/s/18469459
- Alexander BN. This is the reason why Americans refrigerate milk and Europeans don’t. Reader’s Digest, updated Mar. 17, 2021.
- Rickman C. The reason aseptic milk isn’t sold in the refrigerated section. Tasting Table, updated Feb. 16, 2023.
- Zabbia A, Buys EM, De Kock HL. Undesirable sulphur and carbonyl flavor compounds in UHT milk: a review. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2012;52(1):21-30.
- Ismail B, Nielsen SS. Invited review: plasmin protease in milk: current knowledge and relevance to dairy industry. J Dairy Sci. 2010 Nov;93(11):4999-5009.
- Rauh VM, Sundgren A, Bakman M, et al. Plasmin activity as a possible cause for age gelation in UHT milk produced by direct steam infusion. Int Dairy J. 2014 Oct;38(2):199-207.
- Carvalho BdL, Sales IMS, Peron AP. Cytotoxic, genotoxic and mutagenic potential of UHT whole milk. Food Sci Technol, Campinas. 2017;37(2):275- 279.
- Cornall J. Nestlé eliminates stabilizers from its UHT milks in Brazil. Dairy Reporter, Sep. 19, 2018.
- Haas R. Loss of nutritional value in ultra-pasteurized vs. pasteurized milk. LiveStrong.com, n.d.
- Geiselhart S, Podzhilkova A, Hoffmann-Sommergruber K. Cow’s milk processing—friend or foe in food allergy? Foods. 2021 Mar 9;10(3):572.
- Warren CM, Agrawal A, Gandhi D, et al. The US population-level burden of cow’s milk allergy. World Allergy Organ J. 2022 Apr 21;15(4):100644.
- Manadan A, Edigin E, Attar B. Eosinophilic esophagitis occurring after switching to ultra-pasteurized milk: coincidence or unrecognized etiologic trigger? Cureus. 2020 Aug 18;12(8):e9828.
- WebMD Editorial Contributors. What to know about boiling milk. WebMD, reviewed Feb. 12, 2024.
- Gregory JF 3rd. Denaturation of the folacin-binding protein in pasteurized milk products. J Nutr. 1982 Jul;112(7):1329-1338.
- Fatih M, Barnett MPG, Gillies NA, et al. Heat treatment of milk: a rapid review of the impacts on postprandial protein and lipid kinetics in human adults. Front Nutr. 2021 Apr 30;8:643350.
- Fleming DW, Cochi SL, MacDonald KL, et al. Pasteurized milk as a vehicle of infection in an outbreak of listeriosis. N Engl J Med. 1985 Feb 14;312(7):404- 407.
- Ryan CA, Nickels MK, Hargrett-Bean NT, et al. Massive outbreak of antimicrobial-resistant salmonellosis traced to pasteurized milk. JAMA. 1987 Dec 11;258(22):3269-74.
- Morell SF. The curse of ultra-pasteurization. The Epoch Times, Feb. 15, 2024.
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Endospore
- Kmiha S, Aouadhi C, Klibi A, et al. Seasonal and regional occurrence of heat-resistant spore-forming bacteria in the course of ultra-high temperature milk production in Tunisia. J Dairy Sci. 2017 Aug;100(8):6090-6099.
- Tirloni E, Stella S, Celandroni F, et al. Bacillus cereus in dairy products and production plants. Foods. 2022 Aug 25;11(17):2572.
- Machado SG, Baglinière F, Marchand S, et al. The biodiversity of the microbiota producing heat-resistant enzymes responsible for spoilage in processed bovine milk and dairy products. Front Microbiol. 2017 Mar 1;8:302.
- Tetra Pak. The UHT milk evolution: discovering new possibilities in a long-lasting favourite. Dairy Reporter, Oct. 30, 2023.
- Smith S. Letter to medical professionals about raw milk. Raw Milk Institute, Dec. 3, 2019. https://www.rawmilkinstitute.org/updates/letter-to-medical-professionals-about-raw-milk
- Lyubomirova T. Probiotics-enriched ambient dairy “three to six months out,” says AnaBio. Dairy Reporter, Mar. 21, 2023, updated Jan. 11, 2024.
This article appeared in Wise Traditions in Food, Farming and the Healing Arts, the quarterly journal of the Weston A. Price Foundation, Spring 2024
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How might culturing UHT milk into yogurt or kefir change it’s harmful qualities?
It cannot change the harmful qualities.